The waves are so good you can’t possibly pull yourself from the water. Over and over again, you catch and ride amazing waves.
Each paddle back out to the lineup is more difficult than the last but you realise that, when it’s this good, you have to push through until you can’t physically take another stroke.
Later, the middle of your back tingles and burns. Your arms are like lead weights. A body satisfied from overuse and mental fulfillment after a great day of surfing.
This is the burn.
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