We had the biggest swell of the year just over a week ago. It was ugly. It was stormy. It was awesome to see. This is the SESSIONS recap of Big, Ugly Swell & a Firewire Nano.
And I knew I had to at least try to get waves. I tried to paddle out twice at a semi-protected spot on a 7’0 custom gun surfboard by Mike Psillakis. After two attempts of getting out to the firing line only to be pounded to pieces by solid double overhead plus sets and sent to shore, I went, tail between my legs, to the one place on our little stretch of coastline that only breaks in the biggest, baddest of swells.
It was chest high when we first arrived and, not wanting all of the length of my 7’0 gun, I pulled out the only other board in the back of my car – a 6’0 Firewire Nano. I dig this board and am continually impressed by how well it handles itself in bigger, steeper waves but this was on another level. By the time we got out of the water, the swell was peaking at overhead to occasional double overhead. The Nano was just fine!
This is footage of a spot copping 110% of the raw, evil storm swell and then the little brown left that we ended up surfing.
Hope you enjoy the footage!
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